Wow! it is Tuesday, and we leave Antigua tomorrow. I am not sure I can make enough time tonight to write as I would like, but here is a short version.
On Friday we took a carriage tour of Antigua, so Michelle wouldn´t have to walk. It was a lovely beginning, a low key way for everyone to begin taking in the experience, not too tiring. We had not pre arranged anything, not knowing what everyone would be up for, nor even talked up the trip much, not knowing if we could make it happen. In the long run we decided to do a few short tours, easier for Michelle than the long walks and crowded bus rides involved in making our own arrangements as I had before.
Wonderful cafe near the hotel, run by a Swiss woman and Cuban husband. Fantastic prices, coffee, breakfasts were fusion of traditional Guatemaltecan and not sure what but great. Kids were so happy and Brendan has become more daring in his willingness to try foods, but the kid still hates potates and beans and tortillas... not an easy omission around here. Cobblestone streets are wonderful, riotous bouganvilla flowers and others I don´t know are overflowing every courtyard, volcan fuego is venting every day in sight of our hotel room!!! I wasn´t sure if I was seeing random clouds at first! Our room is cheap and spectacular with a courtyard full of vines with flowers I don´t know hanging all around us like some jungle treehouse, and the colors and hospitality and warmth I remember. First dinner was the traditional soup with rice and four bowls of condiments. It was from here I learned to make soup with bowls of extras (condiments like cilantro, green onions, avocado, crushed peppers, other herbs and potential additions I cannot think of tonight) to be added to taste by each guest, a wonderful way to dress up a soup.
Saturday morning we woke up at 3am for a four am trip to Tikal. It almost killed us all. The price of not having more time. We should have gone later and stayed the night instead of making it a day trip. I had no preparation for Michelle´s fear of flying. Even the trip to Guatemala was not so bad, but she was so tense and afraid on the trip to Tikal that she almost made herself ill, and expended much precious energy. Tikal involves walking, Luckily even there we found handicap assistance, first time we have baldly needed it and called it that. Michelle was driven in to the main temple courtyard, and we took turns climbing up temples and seeing monkeys et al. We just didn´t have time to do it justice. Brendan was in alt over getting to climb temple four (you might remember from the Star Wars movies, Princess Leia was in a scene there, and a few more shots from there were shown in the Ewok movie.) Michelle was impressed, but way too tired and still adjusting and not really ready to enjoy things yet. Our guides were just wonderful and took Brendan under their arm so he could stretch his legs and Michelle could go at her own pace.
Sunday day we slept in and went to the local market. It was a good choice instead of a long bus ride to a more heavily touristed and insanely busier market. We bought very little, just looked and and the kids soaked in the sound & smells and colors. We were moved to another room with a T.V. and the kids instantly gravitated to the comfort of cable. Everyone was so tired we just did mild prowling, took turns walking around a bit and rested. It wasn´t enough.
Monday morning we were up early to see a live volcano. A an amazingly beautiful drive through mountains that are, unfortunately, quilted with farmed patches of corn and other, but mainly corn. Amazing to see how different parks are. Local crowd of kids came by with horses and walking sticks to rent. Michelle was not prepared for riding up and down steep trails, but she was a trooper. Brendan rode down and loved it, and I tried to hike off some of the pounds I have gained.
My favorite part of the trip. Brendan and I hiked up almost to the summit of a volcano with lava flowing down the side, molten and red. Amazing patterns in the cooled lava, and as each patch of red lava flowed, it cooled and the greying and cooled section became brittle, cracked and shattered off like glass, and fell down the slope towards us. yes, I have a couple of pieces... amazing. The rocks we stood on slightly melted our shoe soles as the heat from 10 meters down floated up around us!!! This one will have to have accompanying pictures. I will post them when I get back...
We got back around 1pm, and lazed around the rest of the day, watched Fuego puff away and snacked on fresh fruit from the market.
This morning Nick left for the states and I took the kids to a local cooperative run by a saavy group of Mayan mothers who sell an artisan tour based out of the cafe nearby. The Swiss woman has organized it and taught the women well. They are amazing, their craft is quite fine, and they put on a wonderful show (I call it a show because they have packed the things they love about their community, and only those which they are willing to share, and put it into a package that was interactive and fun). So. First we sat by the local lake and heard a legend, I will write that later as this internet cafe is about to close. Then we were taken back to their courtyard and shown demonstrations of their handicrafts amazing weaving which we could try, amazing traditions they explained and acted out, dances in front of us and home made food, and then we could select from their handicrafts, having gotten to know the women who made them. I have tremendous respect for the interaction between the owners of the cafe, and the groups of indigenous people they help. I would love to write more about this tour when I can, it was entirely enchanting, set in the midst of heartbreaking poverty. I didn´t mention the starving dogs we see everywhere but Antigua proper, and the one who followed our troup up the volcano, and laid down and died before us, unable to make it back down, even after wolfing down food she was given.
Tomorrow we leave for Hue hue tenago, and will have uncertain contact. Michelle is stellar, but we will leave early if it isn´t a good experience for her. I will post a photo of her in traditional clothing when I get back.
Love, and miss you all
Kirsten
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