Chuj

Chuj is a Mayan dialect spoken by only two groups now, and almost exclusively here. Chuj is also a small concrete block building used as a sauna, and Wednesday night Michelle and I did the Chuj.

Inside is a low bench on one side, and a spigot by the entrance of the other side, with a firebox covered with large rocks on the far corner. A fire is built under the rocks, and a metal bucket full of water placed close to it to heat. A large bowl is next to that, and under the spigot, another bucket with cold water.

Upon entering the chuj you scoop warm water on the rocks producing enough steam to choke a horse. Herbs are placed inside the smoky building, to gently wave around or smack yourself with. Either way they are refreshing. Once you are hot enough, or if you are trying to preserve some heat for the next participant, you mix cold and hot water in the middle bucket to taste, and wash yourself. It is a very rustic experience, and you leave with a smoky flavor...

So we disrobe downstairs at the foundation, in the teacher's bathroom. Wrapped in towels we tiptoe through the cold water in the concrete courtyard, climb the stairs in front of most of San Mateo and round the corner to the chuj. Michelle is greeted by a joyous Clifford, the black puppy that lives there. I get in the Chuj where I put way more hot water on than I can breathe through, and Michelle plays with Clifford until it is breathable again. She comes inside and we huddle together, dropping towels and feeling deliciously warm in this cold place, and in a totally alien environment. We play with the water, she whacks me with the herbs. She is far more interested in washing my body than hers, self-conscious about the exposure. She wants to make steam, mix the water, explore all the variables.

We sit in quiet, she giggles a little once in a while. She wishes she could be in there with a friend to share the experience.

I decide that it doesn't matter that concrete blocks are not attractive, the heat most definitely overrides the aesthetic absence. It is a very good moment to share with my daughter.

---

Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase.